Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Inis Mor

Buses = Good for catching up on sleep and drying clothes

Found in a pub on the island - Win!

ELD at Dun Aengus

Those cliffs are mighty high

Im not going to pretend I wasnt scared!

Down the face of the cliff

A windy day at the fort

Claire trying to be a kite and get blown off the cliff.

Specatcular

Outside the fort

Inside the fort

Sone walls on stone paths

Dun Aengus from a distance

Looking across the bay to the Connemaras

Houses on the island

Where we found our way down to the ocean

Claire in the crazy landscape

Walls built to last

Walking

A peaceful island


I'll be back again ;)

Sunday, April 24, 2011

Leaving Clonmel for Inis Mor, Galway and Cork

10/04/2011
The morning we were meant to leave Clonmel for Aran via Galway the O’dwyers offered to take me by St Patricks Well. It’s a beautiful little Natural Spring with a well and what remains of an old church building.  When we arrived we hurried down by the well, and a man offered me his stainless steel mug to drink from the well so I did. Had to get in there and have the complete authentic experience didn’t I. it was lovely and fresh water. While we sat a little longer and soaked up surroundings we watched locals come and collect some water, and a group of four girls sit in the spring water to relieve their muscle pain – we asked (because they looked funny), and they had played their hurling final the day before and we’re set to back it up for another comp today.

Man at St Patricks Spring, Ready to Give Me a Drink
  
St Patricks Spring.

The girls 'Chilling' their sore legs

Jeanette haveing her drink too
Just in time we rushed back to collect Gemma then off to the bus farewells weren’t long as we were going to be back in a couple of days.


The bus was heading to Galway where we caught another bus to the dock where the ferry was waiting to take us to Inis Mor` which is part of the Aran islands.
Gemma asleep on the bus

Again getting off the ferry walking to our hostel, Gemma had stated that she knew exactly where we were going. And again I questioned her navigation yet she managed to get us there.  The Mainistir house. Which is the only place Gemma has ever stayed when visiting Aran (she’s been 3 times now) and this hostel had a grand reputation for dinners. The amount of times Gemma had mentioned the magnificent ‘slightly vegetarian’ dinner (Full Chicken Roast) she had been served last time; it was like I had already been there. When she would talk up the chef I would often comment saying that she is raising my expectations and knowing our luck there is prob* a new chef and it’s not going to be quite the same. Our luck indeed… although it was the same chef working at the hostel, dinner was not being served on Sunday night. Unfortunately, as we were only staying there for the one night I have not experienced this Impeccable slightly vegetarian dinner. I guess that’s just an excuse to return. In the hunt for food we swiftly made our way down the road to the local pub where I managed to eat an entire beef burger, chips and half of Gemma’s pasta dish – Later realising that that was enough food to technically feed At least 6 of me’s ( using the ‘servings should be the size of your fist’ rule). To use Jason’s words… it was the biggest itis ever!  we were lucky to be again entertained by some locals playing music in the pub. Defiantly something we enjoy!


11/04/2011
In the morning we woke and had breakfast with a wonderful view across the water. Homemade muesli, a range of toast and Jam and a pot of tea for gem, a pot of coffee for me.  After breakfast we strolled back into town to hire bikes for the day. You know how to ride a bike Gemma would ask me… yes I know how to ride a bike I would tell her. Picking up lunch and snacks for the day we headed for Dún Aonghasa. We soon discovered that although I can ride a bike… riding a bike up slight hills doesn’t last long and it tends to kill me. It was a lot of fun to ride around the island though, seeing the country side and the beach and all the sweet old houses. Soon after us, a group of tourists arrived at Dún Aonghasa, so we lagged behind trying to avoid their crowd. As Gemma likes to quote “I am a discerning traveller, you are visitors; and they are Tourist” (side note: don’t call yourself a traveller when you’re in Ireland, you don’t want people to think you’re a gypsy).

After Dún Aonghasa, we followed our bike map towards a different rock cliff. This route was marked by small painted arrows and little ‘man walking’ pictures. We managed to find this hidden landscape of waves crashing and rock cliffs and took a moment to soak up the sun and capture the waves crashing. With an hour or so left before our ferry back to Galway, we rode back to town, collecting our bags before popping in to a few of the souvenir stores. I was on the lookout for an Aran original knit in some form; but I was on a budget and very picky.


In Galway we stayed in Nimmos Hostel which is the north end of town. This hostel was not like the others we had been in… upon arrival, after telling the attendant that we had a booking for 2, he had me write my name in a book and then just showed us our room. (Nice modern booking system they had) this room had 11 beds yet we were the only ones in it, which is something we seem to be blessed with often (means we are able to steal other beds blankets or matrasses like Gemma did this time), yet was especially lucky this time (or pointless?) as the rooms did not have locks. Most wouldn’t be comfortable with this but we just pad locked our bags to the bed and went and got dinner. From our room we could hear music playing… as we rather like Irish pub music if you haven’t yet noticed; so we followed the sound to the building next door. Jukebox gypsies, a band of 5 playing as we arrived, followed by an individual artist – Bill Coleman. We really enjoyed both as they played their own songs and were greatly enthusiastic.


Sleeping Well with our extra matrasses and linen we checked out and wondered Galway city. Shop street mostly, although veering off to find quaint boutiques or antique shops. In this vibrant city we enjoyed pausing for a moment to listen and watch buskers draw in a crowd as they play covers. By this point I had made a conclusion that all Irish people could sing well – yet feared that the next time I heard an Irishmen sing I would be disappointed and they would ruin the wonderful image in my mind. Yet to be disappointed – so if your Irish and you can’t sing well don’t let me knowJ, in the interest of national image.
 
12/04/2011
Another bus trip down south to Cork, we stayed with the Fenton-Leogues for two nights. It’s nice Staying with Families like the O’dwyers and the Fenton-Leogues because they make you feel comfortable and very homely; especially with their wonderful cooking!
Exploring Cork City, Emmett took us on a tour of the University of Cork City (it makes you Jealous when you see a school with SOOO much history and old architecture), we then walked to the Cork Tourism information centre to look for things to do, hopefully free! We were in luck because there was a live life learn festival on and everything was Free! There we met up with Ben and Shannon, who had just arrived in cork, fresh off the plane, back packs and all. We decided to go to the Cork Museum which was interesting... they even had a section for Gemma on gypsies/Travelers; we then had lunch in the English Market – Quaint little place that was! ; and returned to the university to participate in an art workshop in the uni Art Gallery (yes that’s right UCC have their own Prestigious Art Gallery); after the gallery Gemma and I fare welled Ben and Shannon and scurried to the other end of town to join in on a cooking demonstration – today we were learning how to make scones and use the same recipe to make a pizza base. The Most exciting part about that part of the day was when the lady said she would “put on a pot of tea and we’ll all sit in the next room and eat our scones”! (WIN FREE FOOD!). We were most excited about our event filled day, being able to do lots of different things and all for FREE! Love Cork!

Friday, April 22, 2011

Welcome to Clonmel

Getting my Blog on
8/4/11
On our last morning in Belfast we bought some breakfast and took it down to the City Hall to eat in the sunshine at the base of the Queen Victoria statue. During this peaceful meal we watched the Mayor having photos with Miss Belfast Rose for a publicity campaign and soaked in that morning feeling in a city that hasn’t quite got started for the day. That leisurely breakfast was followed by a leisurely stroll over to the bus station where it only took us a little while to find out that what we had bought online were TRAIN tickets, and that the train station was on the other side of town. We made it with plenty of time but still aren’t sure how we got train tickets and thought they were bus ones. Due to political troubles at the border between the Republic and Northern Ireland, we had to alight and take a bus to the next station, but apart from that it was a peaceful ride with a lot of changing scenery, we even saw the beach!

Pulling into Dublin we found our way to the main street to find a tourist office (those places are so useful!) and find out where our next BUS was going from. We had a few hours to spare so we grabbed some rolls and aimed for Trinity College to sit on the grass, but our bags were heavy and we didn’t make it. Instead opting for a park bench by the road where we watched our surroundings and chatted with some people in their taxi.  When our bus finally came we piled in and as the sun set Claire faded with it, but I was of course too excited to be tired. My stomach was twisting as I started recognising the mountains and eventually the towns, roundabouts and streets. When the bus driver stopped the bus at a spot that wasn’t the bus stop because ‘he wasn’t sure the bus would make it’ I think Claire may have been a little dubious as too my knowledge of directions (I was telling her ‘I’m pretty sure it’s right here, then it’s left somewhere, don’t worry I’m sure it will jump out at me when I see it’) we made it of course, and at the bus stop Martin and Moya were waiting to see us. For those who don’t know, I lived with this family on exchange for 9 months in 2006 and this is my second time back since then. Hugs were exchanged all round and then again at home with Jeanette. Kathleen arrived home not long later, barely acknowledged me, (Until I accosted her) and it was kind of strange as I had only seen her 3 months ago in Aus so it didn’t even feel like a reunion! There was a lot of talking over dinner before Kathleen took us down to the pub to see Gillian and Ais and again there were so many hugs and questions (this was a very hug filled couple of days!)
The next day we had intentions of climbing the mountain to Holy Cross, but just getting to the other side of the river was enough for us and we strolled with Kathleen’s dog Tashi in the park and getting him to swim in the river. We followed the river path all the way up to our old school where we sat and watched the river, nothing like relaxing near a river and some cows. Kathleen had to practice her upcoming performance of The Passion at St Mary’s church so Claire and I walked her in and then continued into town, just checking out the shops, until we went back to watch her and Ais.


Tashi was put down a few days after this, so R.I.P Tashi

Kathleen and a very wet Tashi


Claire navigating the Blackberries

The Suir river running through Clonmel

Claire and Kathleen on the river
That night was quite an occasion, it was Laura Peter’s 21st birthday and so, dressed to the nines we went down to Raheen House to celebrate. I was nervous to see all my friends again after so long, but it was so much fun, we danced until we were turfed out at midnight, and then we walked back into town to O’Keef’s, an actual Irish Mean Fiddler. But not as classy as the fiddler..... But hey, I’m all about the experience! Eventually even this place closed and we taxied home and fell into bed.
The next morning we were woken by Kathleen jumping on us, luckily as we had a bus to catch to Aran! But that’s the next instalment.

Me, Claire and Ais drinking Bulmers, made fresh in Clonmel!

Kathleen wishing she was 21

With Ais, Kat, Ellen and Alana

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Spring Break in Ireland

Belfast- 6/4/11
Our bus to the airport on the morning of the 6th was at 3.20am and we arrived at the empty bus stop at 3.27. That was just how our morning started. A very tired pair called a taxi and 67 pounds later we were at Stansted airport. Our flight wasn’t until 7.30 so we napped and read the paper before getting on the plane and passing out before even taking off. We found our hostel easy enough and thankfully they let us check in early so we took an official nap before heading out into the city at about 11. Our first destination was to find the murals. Shankill Rd was near to us and it wasn’t long before we could see murals covering the sides of houses. We were standing looking around and deciding where to go when a local noticed us, “Do y’ want to see the murals? Come with me, I’ll show ya.” He introduced himself as Sam, just back from 3 years in Australia and told us about the area, including the bombings he had experienced. He told us about a time when he was in the street when it happened. “I saw a body, lyin naked. Y’ know how all the clothes come off with a force like that? And she was face down, with cuts covering her body from the shrapnel. I thought it was my ma an I ran over to cover her with my jumper. But when I went to turn her face toward me my fingers went straight through her skull, shattered it was, and she was dead. It wasn’t my ma but the horror was still there. But y’ know what haunts me more? What comes back to me at night? It’s the screamin, all those children screaming, for their mothers and their fathers and cryin at the sight of the ruins”
The murals

Claire studying the murals





Sam didn’t stay with us for too long, but he was a good introduction to the area. There are so many different political parties that Claire and I are unsure exactly who was who but we resolved to look into it. The peace wall was nearby and it was the least peaceful looking wall I’ve ever seen. It was about the height of a 3 story house with barbed wire and political graffiti covering it, it still has gates which get shut at night to keep the areas separated.

The Peace Wall
 I should mention that the weather was lovely, blue skies and sunshine helped to beautify what was otherwise a very dero part of town. Wandering back into the city we found out that it was the 100th anniversary of the Titanic and the City Hall’s lawns were set about with a photographic exhibition of the great ship. Inside the hall we were given a tour of the Victorian rooms and a brief history of the town.
City Hall
Inside the hall

Sitting in the Mayor's seat

The main foyer

The streets of Belfast

 At this late stage of the day we picked up some food and went back to the hostel for our second nap of the day (Win!) We had an aim for the evening; the hostel had recommended Fibber Mgee’s, a pub down the road, for its live music every night. We headed down to this very atmospheric pub and ordered our pints of cider. The pub was very quickly full and the musicians played keyboard, accordion, harmonica and guitar and played mostly Irish folk music but also some newer stuff. They had us swaying and tapping our feet, laughing at the old guys dancing and even after our long day we had to drag ourselves away at midnight knowing that if we didn’t, we wouldn’t wake up the next morning!
7/4/11
On our second day we managed to wake up early enough because we had a plan. Claire and I like to collect ‘essential experiences’ and one of those experiences is to find a national or clichéd food to eat. In Ireland (apart from the potato) that food was a full Irish breakfast. We strolled into the first greasy diner that we could find and ordered the Ulster fry with tea and coffee. Sooooo greasy. We had beans, mushrooms, egg, bacon, sausage, fried bread and something else bready that we couldn’t identify. No black or white pudding yet L It all got finished but I can’t say that either of us felt great about it afterwards.
Claire and her Ulster Fry

 Still we unclogged our arteries with the hot drinks and for some reason got on a bus. The idea was that we were catching a bus to the botanic gardens, but for some reason we thought that the first bus we saw was going there so we just got on. Turns out we got a nice scenic ride out to the outskirts of the city and then back in again. Once we got back in we made an effort to read the bus timetables and found the bus that would take us to the botanic gardens. It was again a gorgeous day and the gardens were teaming with people, sitting on benches amongst the flowers, playing soccer, lying on the grass and eating ice-cream. It was beautiful to see in what had so far been a fairly rough city. Most of the flower beds were in full bloom and we visited a few conservatories, one called the tropical ravine was so warm and moist that the air was thick to breath.
In the gardens was the Ulster Museum. It was a very impressive museum, this sounds so sensible, but everything was just very well set out. We found out a lot more about The Troubles and about how it is still ongoing (Just last week a policeman was shot on the border of Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland over political disputes). We had what was probably an inappropriate amount of fun for people of our age in the children’s interactive area where we got to dress up in corsets and hoop skirts. The attendant in the area commented on us being big kids :D
Being a big kid


Painting

 We also enjoyed the art interactive area where we got to paint in water colours, so many reasons to love museums! It did close eventually though and we hopped on another bus which we thought was going to the beach (we had been told this by the guy at the hostel) but when it got to the end of the line the driver turned to us to ask where we had been wanting to go, and when we said the beach he gave us a very puzzled look. Back into the city it was, and we aimed for a glass dome visible over the other buildings. It was a shopping centre set about a spidery tower of stairs, elevators and escalators. We took the elevator to the top where a platform was suspended in the middle of the huge dome and we could see a 360 view of the city.
The Dome 
We had our fun there and in the shops until we headed home for dinner and made our way back to Fibber Mgee where there were new singers (same old creepy guys), just as good, and we spent an even longer night singing along! 

City Hall

Breakfast with Queen V.